Airakty-Shomanay: A Complete Guide to the "Castles" of Mangyshlak

From a distance, you’ll feel like you’re approaching the ruins of a prehistoric metropolis, complete with fortified walls, watchtowers, and jagged spires.
44.1565° N, 52.1641° E. The Airakty-Shomanay mountain range, Tupkaragan district (near Shetpe village)
Geology: Born in the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods, these peaks once stood as islands in the ancient Tethys Ocean.
Legacy: In 1851, the exiled artist Taras Shevchenko immortalized these formations in his sketches, christening the area "The Valley of Castles."

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Airakty is the ultimate arena for landscape photography, especially from the air. From the ground, you feel like an ant among giants; from the sky, the labyrinth’s geometry is finally revealed. My advice: plan an overnight stay here. The mountains form a natural horseshoe, shielding your camp from the steppe winds, while the sunset paints the walls in a surreal, fiery orange.
Konstantin Kikvidze, Photosafari-travel Guide

Airakty-Shomanay: A Wind-Sculpted Mirage

While Boszhira feels like a cold, Martian landscape, Airakty-Shomanay tells a different story. It feels man-made, as if you’ve stumbled upon the ruins of a titan civilization that vanished millennia ago, leaving behind only the skeletons of their grandest cathedrals.

The Airakty-Shomanay range is a vast network of remnant mountains scattered across a perfectly flat clay plain. Unlike the chaotic formations found elsewhere, the "architecture" here feels intentional—as if wind and water followed the blueprints of a brilliant, albeit mad, architect.

You will encounter vertical walls resembling fortress ramparts, slender columns holding up the sky, and jagged spires reminiscent of Gothic cathedrals. In the fading twilight, the optical illusion becomes hauntingly real: you almost expect to see torches lit in the "windows" or sentinels appearing on the castle walls.

For visual storytellers, Airakty is a gift. While many Mangystau canyons hide their beauty below the surface (like the Ybykty Gorge), Airakty towers above you. This creates a breathtaking sense of scale, making a human figure in a photograph look like a tiny grain of sand against a monumental wall.

For drone pilots, this is a cinematic playground. Flying between the "towers" of Airakty allows you to capture shots straight out of The Lord of the Rings or Game of Thrones. The geometry is so complex that every turn of the drone reveals a new perspective: an impregnable fortress, a Minotaur’s labyrinth, or a lonely lighthouse in a sea of stone.

The Legacy of the Tethys Ocean

Like the rest of Mangystau, the Valley of Castles is the ancient floor of the Tethys Ocean. The "fortresses" you see today are composed of Cretaceous sedimentary rock—essentially compressed silt, chalk, and the remains of billions of microscopic marine organisms.
When the waters receded and tectonic shifts thrust the plateau upward, erosion took command. The softer limestone dissolved rapidly, while harder layers remained, forming the "protective crowns" atop the towers that prevent them from crumbling into dust.

While walking along the base of the cliffs, keep your eyes on the ground. You are treading on a world millions of years old. While fossils are not found at every step, attentive travelers may be lucky enough to discover:
  • Ancient relics: Fossilized shells, sea urchin needles, or fragments of prehistoric coral.
  • Giant’s Cannonballs: You may encounter spherulites (concretions)—mysterious stone spheres that resemble ancient artillery.
Geologically, Airakty is the sibling of the famous Valley of Balls (Torysh). Here, you can witness the "birth" of these stones: they slowly weather out from the mountain’s layers and roll down to the valley floor.

The Name’s Origin: Taras Shevchenko’s Legacy

The "Valley of Castles" is far from a modern marketing gimmick. It has a birth certificate, a specific author, and a history dating back to 1851.
During the Karatau Expedition led by Alexander Antipov, the ranks included the exiled Ukrainian poet and artist Taras Shevchenko. Upon witnessing these mountains, Shevchenko was so overwhelmed by their resemblance to medieval fortresses that he produced a series of sketches titled "The Valley of Castles."

On his canvases, Mount Airakty appears exactly as we see it today: a formidable, impregnable citadel complete with towers and buttresses. For the modern traveler, this adds a profound layer of cultural depth. You aren’t just looking at geological formations—you are standing before the same "fortresses" that inspired a master artist over 170 years ago.
Taras Shevchenko’s original sketch "The Valley of Castles" (Airakty), 1851.
The Petroglyph Gallery: Messages from Ancient Hunters
Yet, Shevchenko was not the first to recognize the grandeur of Airakty. For centuries before his arrival, these cliffs served as a canvas for the nomads of the steppe. Look closely at the smooth chalk walls, inside the grottos, and tucked into the niches. Here, preserved in stone, are petroglyphs—ancient carvings left by the region's early inhabitants.
These are primarily dynamic scenes of the hunt and depictions of animals: horses, camels, and, of course, the Ustyurt mouflon (argali).

Photo Guide: Mastering Epic Shots of the "Castles"

Airakty-Shomanay is a forgiving location for beginners but a generous one for professionals. Unlike deep canyons where the light "switches off" long before sunset, these towers rise above the horizon, catching every photon of light until the very last moment of the day. Here are three scenarios to help you capture content worthy of a magazine cover.
  • The Golden Hour: Turning Chalk into Gold

    • The Midday Trap: The biggest mistake is arriving at zenith (12:00 – 15:00). The harsh overhead sun flattens the relief, turning majestic fortresses into shapeless white blobs.
    • The Magic: Real photography begins one hour before sunset. Low-angle sunlight transforms the white and grey limestone into warm shades of ochre, terracotta, and gold. Long, dense shadows stretch across the steppe, revealing every crack and column, finally creating that signature "ghost city" illusion.
  • Scale: The "Tiny Human" Technique

    Airakty is the perfect place to showcase the insignificance of man against eternity.
    • The Setup: Place your model at the very base of a vertical wall.
    • The Shot: The photographer must move back 100–150 meters.
    • The Lens: Use a telephoto lens (zoom) to visually "compress" the space. This creates an optical effect where the wall appears to hang directly over the model, emphasizing the monumental scale.
    • Wardrobe: As with Boszhira, contrast is king. Red, bright blue, or orange outfits pop against the pale rocks. Avoid khaki and camouflage—you will simply vanish into the landscape.
  • Drone Pilot’s Guide: The Dragon’s Flight

    For quadcopter pilots, Airakty is the ultimate playground in Mangystau. Here, you don’t just fly over the landscape; you fly inside it.
    • Cinematic Moves: Fly through the narrow corridors between "towers" at speed. Orbit standalone spires to create a parallax effect that emphasizes the 3D volume of the location.
    ⚠️ CRITICAL WARNING: Aerial Predators
    The peaks of Airakty are home to birds of prey (eagles, vultures). They view drones as either rivals or prey.
    • Rule: If a bird begins to circle nearby or shows interest, land immediately.
    • Reality: Eagle attacks are lightning-fast. Your drone stands no chance.

Route & Logistics: Navigating the Valley

Airakty-Shomanay stands out among Mangystau’s top locations for its accessibility. If a trip to Boszhira is a full-scale expedition to the edge of the world, then the Valley of Castles is the "light version" of an off-road adventure. Its proximity to civilization (Shetpe village) makes it ideal for family trips or those exploring the peninsula for the first time.
However, do not let this proximity deceive you. The final kilometers are a classic steppe dirt track with all its surprises: sharp rocks, blinding dust, and treacherous clay.

The road from Aktau is divided into two contrasting stages. The first part (~160 km) is the Aktau–Beyneu highway—modern, smooth asphalt where kilometers fly by. But the real adventure begins after Shetpe, where you leave the asphalt for the steppe. The Airakty-Shomanay system is visible from afar, but the challenge isn't seeing the mountains—it's approaching them correctly. The steppe here is cut by hundreds of chaotic tracks: some lead to the base, others to shepherd huts, and some simply vanish into the saxaul bushes.

Technical Route Details

To help you calculate time and effort, here is a detailed breakdown. Note that timings are estimated for a calm, safe driving pace.
Route Segment
Distance & Time
Difficulty & Guide Tip
Aktau – Shetpe
~170 km
(2–2.5 hours)
🟢 Easy.
Make sure to refuel here (there are no brand-name gas stations ahead). Buy hot flatbread (tandyr nan) or samsa—this is a local gastronomic highlight.
Shetpe – Turnoff to Steppe
~15–20 km
(20 mins)
🟡 Medium.
Watch your GPS closely. It is easy to miss the turn toward the mountains at speed. Landmark: A mountain shaped like a table.
Steppe – Airakty Base
~10–15 km
(30–40 mins)
🔴 Requires Attention.
There is no "main road" here. Choose the most well-worn track. Do not speed: high grass hides rocks capable of piercing your oil pan.

Choosing the Right Vehicle

  • 4x4 SUV (Land Cruiser, Pajero, Duster) The Ideal Choice. You have total freedom. You can drive deep into the mountain "horseshoe," climb higher ground for the best photo angles, and handle uneven terrain without fear of getting stuck.
  • Crossover (RAV4, Sportage) Acceptable in Dry Weather. Your ground clearance is sufficient to navigate the ruts carefully. However, avoid steep climbs and do not drive off the established tracks onto virgin soil.
  • Sedan (Camry, Polo) Risky but Possible (Dry Weather Only). You can reach the main panoramic points, but you must drive extremely slowly. Be prepared to scrape the undercarriage on the center ridges of the track. Deep gorges are off-limits to you—park the car and hike the final 1–2 km.
CRITICAL WARNING: The Clay Trap

The soil around Airakty is solonchak clay. When dry, it is as hard as concrete. However, even a short 10–15 minute rain transforms the steppe into a slippery ice rink.
  • The Physics: Wet clay instantly clogs your tire treads (turning them into "slicks"). Your car loses all traction and becomes an uncontrollable sled sliding into the nearest ravine. Even fully equipped Jeeps with mud tires are helpless here.
  • The Rule: If you see a storm cloud on the horizon—turn around immediately. Drive to the asphalt or high rocky ground.
  • The Consequence: Attempting to wait out the rain in the lowlands means getting trapped for 24 hours until the ground dries completely.

Nearby Attractions: Extending Your Route

Airakty-Shomanay is strategically located, making it one of the most accessible hubs for a day trip from the city. The valley sits within a dense cluster of natural and historical monuments. Here are the perfect additions to your itinerary:
Location & Distance
Description & Significance
Why It’s Worth Visiting
Sherkala Mountain
(~10–15 km, visible line of sight)
A solitary "Spirit Mountain" shaped like a colossal yurt or a sleeping lion. Surrounded by legends of fortress defenders.
Mysticism & Caves. Located just nearby. Walking around the base takes 1 hour—a local ritual for good luck. Explore the caves at the foot.
Akmysh Oasis & Kyzyl-Kala
(On the way to Sherkala)
A green grove with a stream in the middle of the arid steppe, next to the ruins of a Silk Road city (10th–13th centuries).
History & Shade. A rare spot in Mangystau with real trees. The perfect location for a picnic or lunch before your climb up Airakty.
Valley of Balls (Torysh)
(~30–40 km north)
An endless field scattered with stone spheres (concretions) of perfect shape, some up to 4 meters in diameter.
Geological Enigma. Scientists still debate the origin of these "balls." The landscape looks absolutely extraterrestrial.
Otpan-Tau Complex
(~40 km towards the highway)
A historical memorial on Mangystau’s highest point (532 m). The site of the sacred Unity Fire.
The Best Panorama. The summit offers views for hundreds of kilometers. Home to the monument of the mythical ancestor Aday-Ata.

Best Time to Visit: Seasons, Winds, and the "Oven Effect"

Mangystau is unforgiving when it comes to timing. The climate here is sharply continental: this means the difference between comfortable cool weather and deadly heat can be a matter of just a couple of weeks. Your choice of season determines whether you see a blooming garden or a scorched desert.
  • Recommended Seasons
    🌸 Spring (April – May): This is the only time of year when the harsh clay is hidden beneath an emerald carpet of grass. Wild tulips are in bloom, and the air is filled with the scent of sagebrush. The temperature is ideal for hiking (+18...+25°C).

    🍂 Autumn (September – Late October): The "Velvet Season." The steppe is already yellow and sun-bleached, giving the landscape a rugged, "cinematic" look. The main advantage is stability. Rain is rare, and the nights are still warm. Ideal for astrophotography.
  • When to Avoid
    ☀️ Summer (June – August): An endurance test. Heat in Airakty is harder to bear than on the open plateau. The horseshoe shape of the mountains acts like a lens or a stone oven. Temperatures in the shade can reach +45°C. Hiking is dangerous due to heatstroke; comfort exists only inside an air-conditioned car.

    ❄️ Winter (November – March): For extremes only. The steppe turns gray, muddy, and bleak. Piercing winds in the drafts between mountains blow away body heat instantly.

Life in the Valley: An Oasis Amidst Chalk Towers

At first glance, Airakty-Shomanay seems like a frozen kingdom of stone, ruled only by the wind. This is an illusion. Unlike the salty wastelands elsewhere, this horseshoe-shaped valley protects its inhabitants from harsh winds, creating a thriving ecosystem.
Life here doesn't fight the desert; it outsmarts it. The local flora and fauna are masters of efficiency, utilizing every crack in the chalk and every drop of spring moisture.

🦊 Fauna: The Art of Invisibility

Do not expect a zoo here. The local wildlife lives by the laws of stealth: you are more likely to hear a rustle than to see a beast.
  • The Mountain Ghost: Ustyurt Mouflon (Ovis vignei arkal)

    These are the very silhouettes ancient hunters carved into the rocks centuries ago. With powerful horns and phenomenal eyesight, they spot humans from kilometers away.
    Chance of sighting: Extremely low. Consider yourself lucky if you spot a group on the ridge at sunrise before they vanish into the stone labyrinth.
  • Scorpions & Camel Spiders (Solifugae)

    By day, they hide in cool crevices. By night, they hunt. Camel spiders look terrifyingly fast, and scorpions carry venom. Never walk barefoot in camp at night. Do not overturn rocks with your bare hands. This is their home, and they will defend it.
  • Steppe Eagles & Golden Eagles

    The "towers" of Airakty are natural skyscrapers for raptors. They ride the thermal currents rising from the heated rocks, patrolling their hunting grounds for hours without a single wingbeat. Look up—the sky here is rarely empty.
  • Central Asian Tortoise

    The true owners of the spring season (April–May). Their shells mimic the texture of the surrounding boulders, making them nearly invisible.
    Watch your step. They are everywhere, and stepping on one is a tragedy for this ancient reptile.
  • Aday Horses

    Though domesticated, herds of horses graze freely here, adding a cinematic touch to the rugged landscape. In the silence of the valley, a slamming car door can spook them from hundreds of meters away. Be a quiet guest.
The “quiet guest” rule applies here as well. In near-total silence, any loud sound or a car door slam can startle wildlife hundreds of meters around. Watch your step: scorpion and camel spider burrows are often hidden in dry grass, and disturbing them is not a good idea.

🌿 Plant life: the desert’s fleeting beauty

The flora of Airakty–Shomanai is a story about doing everything in just a couple of months. Plants here are sprinters: they must grow, bloom, and set seed before the spring moisture evaporates under the scorching sun.
  • Sogdian tulip (Tulipa sogdiana)

    The main treasure of Airakty. Unlike Tuzbair, thousands of miniature tulips bloom here in spring. These are not tall garden flowers, but tiny white and yellow stars that push their way straight through the tough clay crust. Their flowering is brief—only 10–15 days in April. For that short moment, the harsh Valley of Castles turns into a delicate garden. Picking them is pointless: the flower dies within half an hour, and the bulb is lost forever.
  • Wormwood (Artemisia)

    The scent of Mangystau. Silvery-gray wormwood shrubs blanket the foothills like a continuous carpet. This is an ascetic plant: its small leaves are covered with fine fuzz that reflects the sun and helps retain moisture. The slightly bitter aroma of sun-warmed wormwood will follow you everywhere, becoming the trip’s most vivid olfactory memory.
  • Harmala / Adraspan (Peganum harmala)

    The steppe’s “magical” herb. You will recognize it by its bright green, lush bushes—striking among the dry grass—and its small white flowers. Animals do not eat adraspan because of its bitterness and toxicity, so it thrives. For locals, it is a sacred plant: they fumigate homes with the smoke of dried harmala, believing it drives away evil spirits and purifies the space. In Airakty’s landscape, harmala bushes often stand out as the only green patches in the peak of summer heat.

Safety and gear: survival rules in a stone labyrinth

The Valley of Castles may seem welcoming: there are no dizzying cliffs like at Bozzhyra, and no risk of sudden flooding as in Ybykty Sai. But Airakty has its own hidden hazards. The main one is the deceptive solidity of the rocks.

⚠️ Risk #1: “Sugar” mountains and why climbing is off-limits
Visually, Airakty’s towers and walls resemble solid concrete or granite. Many visitors—especially children—feel a natural urge to climb higher for an impressive selfie on a ledge. This is extremely dangerous. The rock here is soft chalk and compacted limestone. It behaves unpredictably: a ledge that looks reliable can break off under a person’s weight in an instant, crumbling into dust.
Never approach the very edge of the summits and do not attempt to scale steep walls without proper protection. Chalk crumbles, and loose scree on the slopes acts like ball bearings—sliding down is all too easy.

🦂 Risk #2: Encounters with venomous neighbors
We have already talked about wildlife, but here it is about safety. Scorpions, black widows, and camel spiders favor shade and sheltered places. If you are staying overnight, keep your tent zipped up at all times—even if you step out for just a minute.
If you leave shoes outside overnight (or in the tent vestibule), always turn them upside down and shake them out in the morning. This is a golden rule of the steppe.
Do not put your hands into ground-squirrel burrows (snakes may be inside), and do not lift stones without gloves.

💨 Risk #3: A wind tunnel effect
The horseshoe shape formed by the mountains provides shelter from the wind, but if the wind blows along the gorge, it turns into an aerodynamic tunnel. Gusts can be strong enough to rip up poorly secured tents and carry off light items (chairs, tables). Set camp closer to the walls, but not right against them (because of rockfall risk), and always use storm guy lines for tents.

Gear checklist: what to bring so you do not regret it

Item
Why you need it
Guide’s tip
Hiking shoes
Protection from sharp stones, thorns, and slipping on scree.
Thin-soled sneakers “die” here in a single walk. You need a stiff tread and ankle support.
Sturdy trousers
Protects legs from dry grass, thorns, and insects.
No shorts if you plan to walk through grass. Trousers should be long and lightweight.
Water (lots of water)
The air is dry; dehydration happens unnoticed.
At least 3–4 liters per person per day. Plus technical water for washing hands and dishes.
Headwear and sunglasses
White chalk reflects sunlight like a mirror, burning your eyes and face.
Polarized sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat are essential.
First-aid kit
The nearest hospital is far away.
Antihistamines (for bites), panthenol (for sunburn), plasters, and enterosorbents.
Remember: your gear is not only about comfort, but also about safety. In the steppe, the weather can change instantly: exhausting heat can turn into squally wind and a downpour within an hour, turning clay into a mud trap. A prepared traveler enjoys the elements; an unprepared one fights them.

Environmental responsibility: how to protect the Valley of Castles

Airakty–Shomanai is growing more popular with every season, and that puts this unique landscape at risk. The main value of this place is its pristine natural “architecture” and its historical heritage in the form of ancient petroglyphs. Geologically, the Valley of Castles is extremely fragile. The rock pillars are made of chalk and soft limestone—materials that are softer than even gypsum. They are defenseless against vandalism.

Airakty’s walls attract those who want to leave their name behind. But what may look like a harmless inscription is, in reality, an irreversible scar. Unlike granite, chalk cannot withstand mechanical impact. A deep scratch breaks the stone’s protective crust and accelerates erosion. This triggers a “broken window” effect: one “I was here…” message invites dozens more. In the end, a majestic natural wall turns into a scribbled stairwell, losing the very magic that brings thousands of people here.

The second problem is the destruction of petroglyphs. Drawings that are hundreds of years old are often found next to modern vandalism. By trying to “improve” or trace an ancient image, visitors destroy it forever. The oils left by human hands on chalk darken over time and damage the rock’s structure, erasing the messages of those who came before us.

We urge everyone to follow the “Leave No Trace” principle. In the Valley of Castles, it matters to be a guest who does not rearrange the host’s home.

🚫 Strictly prohibited:

  • Leaving inscriptions on the rocks. Carving names, dates, or drawings into soft limestone is vandalism that cannot be undone. Nature cannot “heal” these wounds.
  • Touching petroglyphs with your hands. Ancient drawings are extremely delicate. Even slight friction can reduce them to dust.
  • Making open fires. There is no firewood in Airakty except for rare saxaul, which must not be broken (it stabilizes the soil). In addition, a fire scar remains as a black stain on the ground for decades.
  • Leaving any litter—even “organic” waste. In a dry climate, a banana peel does not rot; it dries out and can remain for years. Wind spreads plastic and tissues across the valley, where they get caught in thorny shrubs.

✅ How to help preserve Airakty:

  • Use gas stoves only. They are clean, safe, and leave no marks on the ground.
  • Take all trash with you. The rule is simple: your vehicle must always have space for your trash bag. Dispose of it in bins in Shetpe or Aktau.
  • Park on firm ground. Do not create new tracks across untouched terrain—this damages the root systems of steppe plants that already struggle to survive.
  • Keep noise to a minimum. Airakty is home to wary argali and eagles. Loud music and noise frighten animals and force them to abandon their shelter.

What to know before your trip: timing, connectivity, and risks

Airakty–Shomanai is one of Mangystau’s more “comfortable” wild locations thanks to its proximity to civilization (the village of Shetpe is only 20 km away). However, it is still desert terrain, and the trip requires serious preparation. Below are answers to the most common visitor questions to help you plan an ideal route.
Minimum: one full day (depart Aktau at 8:00, return at 21:00). This is enough to drive there, spend 2–3 hours walking at the foothills, find concretions, and return. But you will miss the most beautiful part—the sunset.

Best option: an overnight stay. Airakty truly reveals itself at sunrise and sunset, when the sun lights the walls from the side. Camping inside the mountain “horseshoe” gives you a chance to see a stunning starry sky with no city light pollution.

Explore the magic of Airakty with professionals

Airakty–Shomanai is a place where history is written directly on the rocks, and the landscape changes every minute as the sun moves across the sky. Yet even the most accessible location in Mangystau still demands respect and experience. Traveling independently often turns into getting lost in a maze of steppe tracks and struggling with logistics, instead of simply enjoying the moment.
To make your journey a true discovery rather than a test of endurance, it is best to entrust the organization to those who know every stone in this valley.
The Photosafari Travel team invites you to join our signature expeditions, where every detail is carefully planned. We take care of all logistics and comfort—from powerful, well-prepared 4×4 vehicles that are not stopped by rough roads, to setting up a cozy camp with a field kitchen in the most scenic, wind-sheltered corner of the natural “horseshoe.”

We know exactly which gorge hides the most striking petroglyphs, and we will take you there at the hour when the sliding light reveals the ancient drawings at their best. With us, you will experience the Valley of Castles not simply as a tourist, but as an explorer—seeing it from the best viewpoints, at the right time, and in complete safety. Travel deeper, in comfort, and with inspiration. Discover Mangystau’s legendary “fortresses” exactly as nature created them.
Valley of Castles Photo Gallery
These images speak louder than words, showing why Taras Shevchenko was so captivated by this place. The geometry of natural towers that resemble Gothic cathedrals, the play of sunset light on chalk walls, and the boundless open space that makes your heart beat faster.
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