Ybykty Sai: The Complete Guide to Mangystau’s Lace Canyon

You could drive within 50 meters of Ybykty Sai and never know it’s there—this massive rift remains hidden below the level of the steppe. Yet, it is here that you’ll find the most photogenic landscapes in Mangystau.

The true magic of this place lies in the element of surprise. You can traverse the perfectly flat plateau by car, following your GPS, and until the very last second, see nothing but sun-scorched wormwood and the endless horizon. The canyon doesn't loom like a mountain or yawn as a vast abyss from afar. It is tucked away beneath the earth’s surface like a hidden fissure, revealed only when you stand directly at its edge.

It is this sharp contrast that creates such a powerful emotional impact. With just a few steps down the rocky slope, you are instantly transported from the open, windswept steppe into an enclosed, intimate world. Everything changes in an instant: the air temperature drops, the howling wind gives way to a hollow silence, and the scorching sun is replaced by soft, cool shadows. Ybykty Sai is a deep, narrow corridor carved through thick limestone, where the walls converge overhead, leaving only a sliver of blue sky above.

Looking at the intricate walls of Ybykty Sai, it is difficult to believe they weren't crafted by human hands. The columns, niches, and apertures look like the ruins of an ancient temple or a set from a sci-fi epic. However, there were only two architects involved: water and wind. Their masterpiece took millions of years to complete.
The story begins when Mangystau was the floor of the ancient Tethys Ocean. The canyon is primarily composed of limestone—a soft, malleable material formed from the shells of billions of prehistoric marine organisms. This became the perfect canvas for the forces of nature.

The secret behind the unique "porous" structure lies in how the canyon was carved:

• The Power of Water: Ybykty Sai is a seasonal watercourse. For centuries, rainwater gathering on the steppe sought a path to the sea, cutting through the soft rock. The water didn't just flow; it swirled in powerful vortices, drilling circular basins and "bowls" directly into the walls.
• The Finishing Touch of Wind: Once the water receded, the wind took over. Carrying sand and grit, it acted as a natural abrasive, polishing sharp edges and refining rough gullies into delicate, lace-like patterns.

From a paleontological perspective, the walls of Ybykty Sai are an open book of life. If you examine the stone closely (and please do so gently, without disturbing the rock), you can find fossilized shells, mollusk imprints, and fragments of ancient sea urchins. They are silent witnesses to an era when a vast ocean, not the scorching sun, dominated this landscape.
There are no traces of ancient kings or legendary battles here; the canyon has always belonged to the elements. Its value lies not in gold or artifacts, but in the rare opportunity to touch geological eternity, frozen in the form of a perfect natural ornament.

For professional photographers and videographers, Ybykty Sai is a location with complex but highly rewarding light. The canyon’s uniqueness lies in its geometry, where narrow vertical walls act as natural reflectors. However, capturing high-quality content requires an understanding of specific lighting conditions that differ significantly from standard landscape photography rules.

Unlike the vast open spaces of Mangystau, where shooting typically occurs at sunset, you should plan your visit to Ybykty Sai for midday—specifically between 12:00 and 15:00. Because the canyon is both deep and narrow, the morning and evening sun fails to reach the floor, leaving the frame looking flat and dark. Only the midday rays, piercing through the intricate lacy cornices, create the necessary volume to emphasize the "honeycomb" texture and form dramatic pillars of light.

When it comes to aerial cinematography, this is one of the most spectacular drone locations in Kazakhstan. From above, the rift appears as a winding fissure across the plateau. Experienced pilots are encouraged to fly inside the canyon, navigating through arches and narrow corridors to create a dynamic sense of movement within a labyrinth.

For composition, you can use the natural apertures in the walls for framing—a technique that adds significant depth to portraits. If you are shooting on a smartphone, be sure to lock your exposure by tapping on the illuminated section of the wall; otherwise, the delicate stone "lace" will be lost in deep shadows while the sky turns into a blown-out white void.

The limestone walls possess a monochromatic beige hue, so to ensure a model does not blend into the background, it is recommended to wear saturated colors such as red, electric blue, or emerald, while avoiding pastel and sandy tones.

Finally, the unique acoustics and textured walls provide exceptional conditions for video production. Macro shots of the porous surfaces allow for the creation of abstract visuals that resemble extraterrestrial landscapes, making Ybykty Sai a popular choice for filming music videos and commercial campaigns.

Ybykty Sai is situated in the Tupkaragan District, within the northeastern reaches of the Mangyshlak Peninsula. The primary logistical hurdle for travelers is that the canyon remains hidden below the level of the steppe and is entirely invisible from the road. To reach it, travelers usually follow the path toward the region’s most significant underground necropolises, which ensures a logistically dense and culturally rich itinerary.
The driving route begins in Aktau, heading toward the city of Zhanaozen—or using the bypass—before turning east toward the Oglandy tract. The main landmark for this journey is the graded road leading to the Beket-Ata necropolis, as Ybykty Sai is located just off this major thoroughfare. However, the final stretch consists of unpaved steppe tracks that are only navigable by high-clearance 4WD vehicles. It is worth noting that during rainy periods, the clay-rich soil becomes impassable for even the most capable off-road vehicles.

Upon arrival, transport is parked at the edge of the plateau, and the descent into the gorge itself is performed on foot. The trail does not necessitate any specialized mountaineering gear, yet it requires caution due to the presence of loose, scree-like rocks. To make the most of the journey, it is practical to pair a visit to Ybykty Sai with other nearby landmarks situated along the same route. This strategic approach optimizes travel time and allows visitors to experience the full spectrum of Mangystau’s diverse terrain in one go.

Ybykty Sai is a wild natural gorge that serves as the channel for a seasonal watercourse. Descending here is not a simple walk in the park but an immersion into a closed ecosystem with its own inherent risks. The primary mistake tourists make is underestimating the terrain. Despite the canyon’s shallow appearance, sprains and injuries occur annually due to improper footwear and a lack of attention. To ensure a trauma-free expedition, it is vital to understand the nature of the threats hidden within these picturesque walls.
Why is it so slippery, and which shoes should you choose? The walls and floor of the canyon consist of soft limestone and shell rock. Over millions of years, rainwater and wind have polished these surfaces to the consistency of smooth marble. Even in dry conditions, a fine layer of chalky dust rests on the rocks, acting as a "dry lubricant". If even a light rain occurred the day before, the descent transforms into a literal ice rink. Therefore, flip-flops, city sneakers, or shoes with "bald" soles will lead to injuries. You require trekking boots with a deep, aggressive tread (preferably Vibram) and ankle support. Only such a sole is capable of "biting" into the terrain and holding you on inclined surfaces.
The gorge provides life-saving shade in the hot steppe, attracting not only tourists but also local fauna. Crevices, overhanging ledges, and those beautiful "lacy" apertures often hide pit vipers, Dione's snakes, scorpions, and solifuges.

1. The "Watch Your Step" Rule: Snakes are cold-blooded creatures that may lie on the trail to bask or rest. They never attack first unless provoked. In 90% of cases, a bite occurs when a person steps on a snake or approaches too closely. Your primary defense is constant vigilance.
2. The "Hands to Yourself" Rule: Never thrust your hands into burrows, cracks, or blind apertures in the walls for the sake of an interesting photograph or out of curiosity. While you see a "pretty hole," a scorpion or snake sees a home they will defend.
3. The "Tapping" Rule: If you are leading a group through narrow passages with tall grass or rock piles, use a trekking pole to create vibrations in front of you. This warns local inhabitants of your approach and gives them time to retreat.

The risk of flash flooding is the most serious danger, and one rarely considered by novices. During a thunderstorm, rainwater from the vast surrounding steppe rushes into this narrow gutter. The water level can rise by 1–2 meters in mere minutes, transforming into a violent mudflow. If there are storm clouds on the horizon, descent is strictly prohibited. The water does not simply rise; it approaches as a "wall," knocking you off your feet. In such a narrow canyon, there are no paths for retreat.

Remember that your preparation is a matter of both personal comfort and the ability to assist yourself and others in an emergency. A first-aid kit containing antihistamines (for insect bites) and an elastic bandage should always be carried in the backpack of the person bringing up the rear of the group.

Unfortunately, the growing popularity of Ybykty Sai has a downside. The unique texture of the walls, which draws thousands of visitors, is now under threat of disappearance due to human activity. The geological structure of the canyon consists of compressed coquina and limestone—exceptionally soft rocks that are less durable than even common chalk.
Why does every touch matter? When tourists attempt to climb the walls for a photograph, lean on the thin "honeycomb" partitions, or, worst of all, carve their names into the stone, they cause irreparable damage.

1. The Irreversibility of Destruction. Unlike granite, limestone cannot withstand mechanical pressure. The delicate openwork partitions, sculpted by water and wind over millennia, can break from a single careless movement. It is impossible to restore them; nature will not recreate this pattern again. If you lean on a "lacy" partition, it will collapse under your weight, posing a risk not only to the environment but to your own safety.
2. The Broken Window Effect. A single name scratched with a key or a stick encourages dozens more to appear. In some parts of the canyon, the unique natural texture has already been completely obliterated by vandal inscriptions.
3. The Trash Trap. The canyon acts as a natural wind tunnel. Any discarded plastic bottle, wet wipe, or cigarette butt will not decompose here; instead, it will circulate through the gorge for years, getting stuck in crevices and marring the landscape.

We urge you to follow the "Leave No Trace" principle. Leave nothing behind but your footprints on the trail, and take nothing with you but photographs. Do not attempt to break off a piece of rock "as a souvenir"; at home, it will simply turn into a handful of dust, while the canyon will have lost a part of its beauty forever. Preserving this natural monument is the personal responsibility of everyone who descends into its depths.