Kyzylkup (Tiramisu) in Mangistau: A Guide to the Patterned Mountains and Tips for Photographers

If Bozzhira strikes with scale, and Ibykty Sai with geometry, then Kyzylkup wins with color and texture. It is a vast territory dotted with low hills that have a clearly defined, almost unnaturally even layered structure.

Where did the name come from? The historical topographic name of the area is Kyzylkup. Translated from Kazakh, it means "Much Red" ("kyzyl" — red, "kup" — much). There is also a version that the name originated from a reservoir that once existed here. However, in the last 5–7 years, the name "Tiramisu" has become established in the tourism environment. This is a case where folk marketing defeated geography. The resemblance is truly striking: dark brown clay layers alternate with creamy and white chalk layers, resembling savoiardi biscuits soaked in coffee liqueur and sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Visual Features: Unlike the monumental cliffs of Ustyurt, the mountains here are chamber-like, "velvety". The rock here is so soft and loose that the hills have smoothed, streamlined shapes. From afar, they seem covered with a soft plush blanket. Special acoustics reign here: the soft clay absorbs sounds, creating the effect of studio silence. This place is ideal for leisurely walks — there is no need to climb to the peaks here; it is enough to simply walk between the hills, examining the whimsical patterns created by time.

If you look to the south of the tract, you will see the famous Mount Bokty (the very one depicted on the 1,000 tenge banknote). Geologically, Kyzylkup and Bokty are siblings. They are remnants of the same giant plateau that eroded unevenly. Bokty remained standing as a solitary monument, while Kyzylkup turned into a scattering of hills. The uniqueness of this place lies in its fragility. The rocks of Kyzylkup are very susceptible to erosion. Rain and wind wash away millimeters of colored clay every year, slightly changing the "Tiramisu" pattern. We see this landscape in dynamics — in a hundred years, it will look different.

Kyzylkup is a capricious location. To the eye, it looks stunning, but in photographs, it often turns out faded and flat. The reason lies in the specific nature of the colored clay, which absorbs light. To bring back National Geographic-level shots from here, you need to consider three factors: light, optics, and clothing color.

Walking through Kyzylkup literally means walking on a cemetery of ancient civilizations. But not human ones, rather marine ones. What crunches under your boots are not merely stones, but fossilized inhabitants of the Mesozoic ocean. This location is a paradise for paleontology enthusiasts. Unlike Tuzbair, where one searches for shark teeth, Kyzylkup is rich in other trophies.

The Kyzylkup Tract is a logistical gift for a tourist. It is located next to the main pilgrimage route of the region, leading to the underground mosque of Beket-Ata. Thanks to this, a trip here is easy to combine with a visit to Mount Bokty and holy places, fitting a rich program into one or two days. However, accessibility is deceptive. While the main part of the journey takes place on asphalt, the final kilometers are a steppe dirt road that requires attention and the right vehicle.

The route from Aktau looks like a "hook" through the oilman city of Zhanaozen. The total one-way distance is about 230–250 km.

Kyzylkup is rarely visited as a standalone location — it is the ideal "entry point" into the world of Martian landscapes of Mangistau. The tract is located at the beginning of the classic circular route. Here is what is located nearby and will perfectly complement your trip:

The climate of Mangistau knows no "golden mean": it is either scorching heat or piercing wind. For a photographer and tourist, the choice of travel date determines exactly which "Tiramisu" they will see — juicy and contrasting or scorched and dusty.

The Kyzylkup Tract is often called the most "domestic" location in Mangistau. There are no dizzying cliffs here, like at Bozzhira, or the risk of sudden flooding, like in Ibykty Sai. However, this visual softness is deceptive and often lulls tourists' vigilance. The main trap of Tiramisu lies not in the relief, but in the thermal anomaly. Red clay, saturated with iron oxide, works like a giant natural accumulator: it absorbs solar heat and radiates it from below. Even when the air temperature seems tolerable, the ground creates a scorching oven effect, so heat stroke can be obtained much faster here than on a windswept plateau. The only salvation is your car, as there is absolutely no natural shade in the tract.

The second important point concerns movement. The hills look plush and safe, but the rock underfoot is extremely loose and crumbly. An attempt to storm a steep slope "head-on" for the sake of a beautiful shot often ends with the tourist sliding down together with a layer of rock. This not only spoils the unique pattern of the mountain but is also fraught with ankle injuries. It is better to walk here along the lowlands and gentle paths, looking carefully under your feet: camel spiders (solifuges) and scorpions often seek coolness in the cracks of dry clay and under saxaul roots.

The popularity of the Kyzylkup Tract is growing rapidly, which inevitably increases the human impact on this location. The main feature of "Tiramisu" is its unique layered structure and soft, streamlined shapes. Geologically, this is a very vulnerable territory: there are no hard rock formations here capable of withstanding active physical impact.

The surface of the hills consists of soft sedimentary rock that deforms easily. In the local arid climate, a tire track or a deep rut left on a slope does not get overgrown with grass or washed away by rain. It literally imprints itself into the bright relief and remains there for decades. One thoughtless drive along a colored slope ruins the view forever, turning a natural masterpiece into a scarred road.

Kyzylkup is known for its geometry — perfectly even lines of layers. However, the chase for spectacular shots causes colossal damage. The ridges of the hills are very fragile. When tourists start climbing to the very peaks, the sharp edge crumbles under the weight of a person, turning into a shapeless pile of earth. The unique "layered" pattern that nature created over millions of years is erased in a single season.

We urge you to adhere to the principle of sustainable tourism. Being in Kyzylkup, it is important to be an observer, intruding minimally into the natural environment.