Mount Bokty — A Symbol of Mangistau: The Route to the "1,000 Tenge Mountain" and Tips from Guides

Amidst an absolutely flat, sun-scorched takyr (clay desert), a solitary mountain rises like a pyramid of an ancient civilization.
43.4253° N, 53.8038° E
Bokty Tract, between Kyzylkup and the Ustyurt Plateau
Height:
About 165 meters above sea level
Fact:
Water and wind have eroded the ancient plateau into a colorful "layer cake" of clay and chalk.

Содержание

Bokty is a monument to natural perfectionism. Unlike the chaos of canyons, perfect geometry reigns here. No matter which side you look from, you see a new shape: now an Egyptian pyramid, now the bow of an ocean liner.
My advice to travelers: do not try to conquer this peak. Bokty was created to be contemplated from below. Any attempt to climb destroys its fragile colored slopes, which nature has been creating since the Cretaceous period.
Konstantin Kikvidze, Guide at Photosafari-travel

Chameleon Mountain: Why It Is Called an "Upside-Down Ship"

Bokty is the grandest optical illusion of Mangistau. It is a static monument that changes its architecture beyond recognition if you drive just a couple of kilometers along its base. The mountain has no "correct" shape—everything depends on the vantage point.

From the south side, Bokty appears before the viewer as a perfect isosceles trapezoid or a truncated pyramid. The symmetry here is so flawless that it seems as if the facets were aligned with a laser level. It is this "facade" that is most often printed in guidebooks: a powerful base narrowing to a flat top, like a pedestal for a non-existent statue.

But as soon as you drive around the mountain from the east or west, the image breaks. The pyramid disappears, and the bow of a giant ocean liner or a boat turned keel-up rises before you. From this angle, the mountain seems narrow, swift, and dynamic. The sharp "nose" of the ship, composed of hundreds of multi-colored layers, seems to cut through the waves of dry clay, moving through time. Geologically, this is a classic layer cake. White chalk stripes alternate with pink, brown, and bluish clays. At sunset, when the sun hits the side of this "stone ship," the colors flare up, turning the mountain into a giant piece of marbled meat or agate.

The Famous "1,000 Tenge Mountain"

Bokty holds a unique status that neither Bozzhira nor Charyn Canyon possesses. It is the only mountain that officially sat in the pocket of almost every Kazakhstani. Bokty is a cultural code encrypted in currency. It was its silhouette that the National Bank chose for the design of the 2006 series 1,000 tenge banknote (the very same yellow-brown one featuring the hand and petroglyphs).

If you flip that old banknote over, on the reverse side, set against the outline of the map of Kazakhstan, you will see the distinct profile of the trapezoid mountain. The designers did not choose it by chance. Bokty stands apart, in complete isolation amidst the vast takyr. It does not get lost in a ridge of other cliffs, symbolizing stability and uniqueness.

This fact has spawned a special ritual among tourists. Travelers specifically seek out these out-of-circulation bills from collectors or in old stashes to bring them here. Taking a shot of "money against the backdrop of the original," aligning the drawn contour with the real horizon, is the main trophy of the trip.

This is that rare case where reality proves to be much more colorful and grand than the image on paper.

Bokty: Lines of Time in Stone

Bokty’s terrain is composed of layers, so in the sunlight, the "stripes" and variations in form are especially distinct. On the tour, you will see the panorama from the best vantage points and be able to capture your own shots.

Mysteries of the Name and Traces of an Ancient Ocean

While legends of dragons and saints are told about other places in Mangistau, the history of Bokty is written not in books, but in stone. The Mystery of the Name: "Pie" or "Pasture"? There are still disputes surrounding the mountain's name.
  • Tourist Version: Guides often say that "Bokty" translates as "Pie". This version fits the visual imagery perfectly: the mountain truly looks like a layered confectionery masterpiece, where layers of white chalk are spread with a cream made of red and brown clay.
  • Historical Version: Linguists lean towards a more prosaic variant. The name comes from a word denoting a place for wintering livestock or a specific shrub that sheep feed on. But you must agree, the version with the "stone pie" sounds much more romantic.
Bokty is not just a mountain; it is a monument to the Tethys Ocean. 40–60 million years ago, the peak of this mountain would have been hidden under the water, and giant predators would have swum above it. If you look carefully under your feet at the base of the mountain (especially after rain), you can find black shiny triangles—ancient shark teeth. There are fewer of them here than in the Tuzbair Tract, but every find is a greeting from the Paleogene era. Also, "devil's fingers" (belemnites) and fossilized mollusk shells are often found here. Bokty is an open-air museum where exhibits lie right in the dust.

A Photographer’s Guide: Geometry and "The Iconic Angle"

Bokty is a paradise for a perfectionist. Thanks to its isolation and flawless symmetry, this mountain allows for the creation of minimalistic, graphic shots. But for the image to convey the scale and beauty, several technical points must be taken into account.
  • Hunting for the Banknote Shot

    The main trophy of the trip is a photo combining the old 1,000 tenge banknote with the real mountain. Taking this shot is harder than it looks: the camera cannot focus on the hand and the horizon simultaneously. To get both the foreground with the money and the mountain in the distance sharp, use a wide-angle lens (0.5x mode on a smartphone) and try to step back further to align the perspective. You will have to walk left and right along the base to catch the point where the mountain's profile perfectly matches the drawn contour.
  • Chasing the Light

    Bokty is a chameleon mountain made of colored clay. At noon, under direct rays, it looks flat and faded. The magic begins during the "golden hour," just before sunset. Low side light emphasizes every layer of this "stone pie," making the red and brown stripes literally glow from within, and the relief gains deep volume. Overcast weather is also good: the soft diffused light works like a huge softbox, revealing the gentle pastel tones of the chalk without harsh shadows.
  • Scale and Composition

    The main problem with a solitary mountain in the steppe is that its true size is unclear in photos. Without visual landmarks, Bokty can seem like a toy hill. To convey the power of the monument, be sure to include a car or a tiny silhouette of a person at the base in the frame. For the foreground, the texture of cracked takyr or a dry saxaul trunk works perfectly—these details create depth in the shot and lead the viewer's eye to the main subject.
  • View from the Air

    If you are shooting with a drone, avoid the strictly top-down angle—the roof of the mountain is flat and boring. The most cinematic shots are obtained by circling the mountain at a height of 50–100 meters. It is in motion, flying along the sharp ridge, that you can see how the static "Egyptian pyramid" transforms into the swift bow of an ocean liner.

Route and Logistics: How to Find the Mountain in the Endless Salt Flat

The Bokty Tract is a logistically convenient location that fits perfectly into the classic "Golden Ring of Mangistau" route. The mountain is located approximately 250 kilometers from Aktau, exactly halfway between "Tiramisu" (Kyzylkup) and the Beket-Ata Mosque. Most travelers stop here in transit: they take a photo, walk around, and drive on to Bozzhira. But this accessibility is deceptive. The final part of the journey passes along the bottom of a dried-up sea (takyr), and there is no clear road here—only directions.
Route Segment
Distance and Time
Difficulty and Guide's Tip
Aktau – Zhanaozen
~150 km
(2 hours)
🟢 Easy.
Be sure to fill up a full tank in Zhanaozen. There will be no gas stations further on until you return to the city.
Zhanaozen – Turnoff to Bokty
~80–90 km
(1–1.5 hours)
🟡 Moderate.
There are no signs for the mountain. You need to watch the GPS carefully. Bokty will be visible on the left as you drive, but the exit to it is easy to miss.
Exit into the steppe – Base of the mountain
~10–15 km
(30 minutes)
🔴 Requires Attention.
You need to drive along the beaten track. Do not speed: pits and bumps are hidden in the grass. In rain, this section becomes impassable.

Vehicle Choice and Rain Danger

For a trip to Bokty, you need an SUV (Land Cruiser, Pajero) or a sturdy crossover (Duster, Rav4). Although the terrain here is flat, the takyr is rife with hard bumps ("washboarding"), which can damage the suspension of a passenger sedan. High ground clearance will allow you to drive right up to the mountain without fear of tearing off your bumper on saxaul roots.

It is critically important to watch the weather. Bokty stands in a lowland, and the soil around it is a salt flat. While the sun is shining, this surface is as hard as concrete. But as soon as even a little rain passes, the clay instantly turns into viscous soap. The car loses control and settles on its underbelly; getting out on your own is impossible. If you see storm clouds on the horizon—do not risk it, stay on the graded road.

Attractions Near Mount Bokty

Mount Bokty is rarely the sole goal of a trip. It is located very conveniently—in the center of a route connecting colored mountains, holy places, and grandiose canyons. Here is a list of locations that are within an hour's drive and perfectly complement the visit to the "banknote mountain":
Location and Distance
Description and Significance
Why It's Worth Visiting
Kyzylkup Tract ("Tiramisu")
(~20–25 km back to the highway)
Low hills with stripes of multicolored clay (white, pink, ochre).
An "Instagrammable" location. Unlike the rugged Bokty, soft pastel tones reign here. Ideal for portrait photography.
Beket-Ata Necropolis (Oglandy)
(~40–50 km by road)
The main spiritual shrine of Western Kazakhstan. An underground mosque carved into the rock.
A place of power. An opportunity to touch the Sufi tradition and see unique rock architecture.
Bozzhira Tract
(~50–60 km across the steppe)
The calling card of Mangistau. Two giant limestone "fangs" and massive canyons.
The most epic view of the region. Usually, this is where tourists go to spend the night after sunset at Bokty to catch the sunrise on Mars.
Shopan-Ata Underground Mosque
(on the way from Zhanaozen)
The oldest necropolis and underground temple. The burial place of Beket-Ata's mentor.
Historical start. By tradition, the pilgrim's path begins here. Sacred mulberry trees grow here.
Planning Recommendation:

Bokty is the ideal spot for sunset. We recommend the following route logic: leave the city in the morning, visit Kyzylkup by lunch (while the sun is high, the clay stripes are best visible), then move to Mount Bokty. Here you will catch the "golden hour," when the setting sun paints the mountain in crimson tones. For the overnight stay, it is better to head to Bozzhira (tent camp) or to the guest house at the Beket-Ata mosque. It is not worth staying overnight right at Bokty due to strong winds and lack of shelter.

The Best Time to Visit: Seasons and Colors

The climate of Mangistau knows no "golden mean": here, it is either scorching heat or piercing wind. For a photographer and tourist, the choice of travel dates determines exactly which Bokty you will see—contrasting and vibrant or scorched and faded.
  • Recommended Seasons
    🌸 Spring (April – May): The most spectacular time of year. The temperature is comfortable (+20...+25°C). Risk: Spring rains. Even a light downpour turns the path to the mountain into a survival quest.

    🍂 Autumn (September – October): The "velvet season". The grass burns out to a golden-yellow color, and the landscape becomes monochrome-warm, resembling scenes from westerns. The roads at this time are usually dry and safe.
  • When It Is Better Not to Go
    ☀️ Summer (June – August): There is no shade in the Bokty Tract. The air temperature rises to +45°C, and the clay ground heats up so much that the heat is felt through the soles of your boots. The hot air creates a strong haze (distortion), due to which the contours of the mountain "float," making it impossible to take a sharp shot during the day.

    ❄️ Winter (November – March): Off-season. The steppe becomes gray, squall winds blow, and the clay soil often turns to slush from wet snow, making access impossible even for prepared Jeeps.
⚠️ Important Warning: The Takyr Trap If the weather forecast promises rain, the trip to Bokty must be canceled. The mountain stands on the bottom of a dried-up sea (takyr). This soil contains a lot of salt and clay. When wet, it turns into a viscous substance, similar in properties to grease or thick soap. A car on such a surface loses control instantly: the tread gets clogged with mud in seconds, and the car starts spinning even on level ground. Getting out of a wet takyr on your own is practically impossible — there is nothing here to anchor a winch to.

The Sun Factor. Unlike canyons where you can hide in the shadow of cliffs, Bokty is an open monument. The sun here works by reflection: rays strike from both above and below (reflecting off the light clay). The risk of getting heatstroke or retinal burns is higher here than in other locations. Having a hat and sunglasses is a matter of safety, not style.

Gear and Safety: What to Pack to Avoid Ruining Your Trip

The Bokty Tract is a wild steppe far from civilization. There are no shops, pharmacies, or mobile reception here. Your safety and comfort depend 100% on what you put in the trunk before leaving. The main mistake of beginners is underestimating the sun and the harshness of the local terrain. To ensure your trip doesn't turn into an endurance test, check our list of mandatory gear.

Gear Checklist for Visiting the Mountain

Item
Why It Is Needed
Guide's Tip
Footwear
The ground here is hard and stony, surrounded by many dry thorns that easily pierce soft sneaker soles.
Closed shoes are mandatory. Leave sandals and flip-flops for the hotel—in the steppe, this poses a risk of injuring your feet or encountering a scorpion.
Clothing
Protection against aggressive ultraviolet radiation and hard saxaul branches that can scratch you severely.
Choose light natural fabrics (linen, cotton). In shorts and a tank top, you will get sunburned in 30 minutes, even if a cool breeze is blowing.
Headgear
Protection against heatstroke.
A regular baseball cap won't do—your ears and neck will remain exposed and get burnt. You need a bucket hat or a wide-brimmed hat.
First Aid Kit
The nearest hospital is in Zhanaozen (over 100 km away).
Take antihistamines (for bites/pollen allergies), sorbents (water changes often affect the stomach), and Panthenol.
Water Supply
Risk of rapid dehydration in the heat.
Calculation: minimum 3–4 liters per person per day. In a dry climate, moisture evaporates from the skin instantly; you won't even notice thirst setting in.
Rule: Shake Out Your Boot

In the desert, any shade is in short supply. Scorpions and camel spiders often seek coolness and can crawl into shoes left by the tent or under a backpack lying on the ground. Make it a habit: before putting on a sneaker in the morning or after a halt, be sure to turn it over and shake it out. This second-long action will save you from an accidental and very painful bite.

Flora and Fauna of Bokty

At first glance, the surroundings of Mount Bokty seem to be an absolutely lifeless space: cracked takyr, scorched clay, and a complete absence of water. It seems that survival is impossible in this aggressive environment, where soil temperatures reach +60°C in summer. But this solitary mountain is a true oasis and a landmark for dozens of species that have adapted to extreme drought. Life here exists in a strict energy-saving mode, freezing at noon and awakening only during the cool hours.

🦊 Fauna: Masters of the Clay Desert

ou won't find large herds here as you would on the plateau. Life at the foot of Bokty is secretive, guerrilla-like. Animals have learned to use the slightest shade from bushes and the mountain itself as shelter from the scorching sun.
  • Corsac Fox – The Steppe Fox

    The master of the local twilight. It is almost impossible to see him during the day, but closer to the evening, he may flash like an orange shadow on the canyon ridge. The Corsac is curious but timid. He may freeze for a second, studying you, and then immediately dissolve into the terrain if he senses danger.
  • Jerboas and Gerbils

    The main architects of the desert. The entire territory around the mountain is riddled with their complex underground cities. It is difficult to see the rodents themselves during the day, but their presence is betrayed by characteristic mounds of earth and burrows under saxaul roots. They are the base of the food chain, attracting foxes and birds of prey here.
  • Steppe Eagle and Golden Eagle

    The peak of Bokty itself is an ideal watchtower for them. Large predators use air currents rising from the heated clay to soar over the takyr for hours without a single flap of their wings. You can often see an eagle sitting motionless on the "roof" of the mountain, looking out for an unwary ground squirrel.
  • Central Asian Tortoise

    In spring, while the ground is still moist and full of greenery, these slow creatures are found everywhere. They hurry to accumulate fat reserves in order to bury themselves deep in the ground by early June and go into hibernation until next spring. Against the background of reddish soil, their yellow-brown shells camouflage perfectly as ordinary stones.
  • Steppe Agama

    The real "dragon" of these places. In the hot hours, you will often see its silhouette on the tops of bushes or stones. The agama does not hide; it observes. During the mating season, males change color, and their throats become bright blue, creating an amazing contrast with the red clay of Bokty. It allows a person to get quite close, but at a sudden movement, it instantly disappears into a hole.
The rule of the "quiet guest" applies here too. In conditions of absolute silence, any loud sound or slamming of a car door scares the inhabitants for hundreds of meters around. Watch your step: scorpion and camel spider burrows are often hidden in dry grass, and disturbing their peace is not the best idea.

🌿 Flora: The Geometry of Survival

The flora here is sparse, but it is what creates that very cinematic landscape. The plants around Bokty are true Spartans that have learned to extract moisture literally from stone.
  • Sogdian Tulip

    A miniature miracle that can be caught only in April. These are not the garden giants we are used to, but tiny white and yellow stars scattering over the clay. They bloom for only a couple of weeks, rushing to produce seeds before the onset of the great heat, briefly turning the harsh takyr into a blooming garden.
  • Biyurgun (Anabasis)

    This plant is a marker of the clay desert. Low cushions with fleshy leaves pressed to the ground cover the foot of the mountain with a gray-green carpet. In autumn, the biyurgun changes color, becoming crimson or bright yellow, which combines incredibly beautifully with the colored layers of the mountain itself.
  • Black Saxaul (Haloxylon aphyllum)

    Its twisted, knotty leafless trunks look dead, but this is a deception. Saxaul roots go to a depth of up to 20 meters, working like powerful pumps. For a photographer, saxaul is a gift: its whimsical silhouette in the foreground adds drama and volume to a shot with Mount Bokty.
  • Adraspan / Harmala (Peganum harmala)

    You will recognize it by its small white flowers and specific, intoxicating smell. The Kazakhs have long considered adraspan sacred: its smoke is used to fumigate houses to drive away evil spirits and diseases. In the canyon, its bright green bushes look like islands of life amidst dead stone.

Ecological Responsibility: How to Preserve Mount Bokty

The popularity of Mount Bokty is growing rapidly, which inevitably increases the human impact on this location. The main feature of the tract is the perfect geometry of the mountain itself and the surrounding desert takyr. Geologically, this is a very vulnerable territory: there are no solid rocks here capable of withstanding active physical impact.

The mountain is a layer cake made of soft colored clay and chalk. These rocks are extremely unstable under mechanical pressure. In the local climate, boot prints on a steep slope do not get overgrown with grass and do not disappear for years. An attempt by a single person to climb to the top leads to the shedding of cubic meters of rock, forever disrupting those very perfect lines for which photographers come here. The mountain literally melts under the feet of tourists.

The surface around the mountain is sun-dried clay (takyr). Tire tracks left on this surface are not washed away by rare rains but harden like concrete. They are imprinted into the terrain and remain there for decades. One thoughtless drive across virgin soil for the sake of a "lucky shot" leaves an ugly scar that ruins the landscape for all future generations of travelers.

We urge you to adhere to the principle of sustainable tourism. Being near Mount Bokty, it is important to be an observer, intruding minimally into the natural environment.

🚫 What is strictly forbidden:

  • Climbing the mountain. This is the main rule. The slopes of Bokty are loose and steep. Climbing not only destroys ancient clay layers but is also extremely dangerous to health due to the risk of landslides.
  • Driving off established roads. Driving on the virgin takyr destroys the texture of the desert.
  • Leaving inscriptions on the clay. Soft rock provokes vandalism. Names and dates scratched at the foot of the mountain are an act of destruction of a natural monument that cannot be repaired.
  • Digging slopes for fossils. Collecting shark teeth from the surface of the ground is allowed, but conducting excavations and destroying the integrity of the mountain with tools is unacceptable.

✅ How to preserve the nature of Bokty:

  • Observe from below. The mountain was created for contemplation from a distance. The most beautiful and grand shots are obtained precisely from the foot, not from the summit.
  • Park on solid ground. Use only existing tracks and areas, without blazing new trails through bushes and untouched clay.
  • Take all trash with you. In the desert, organic waste does not rot. Any trash, including wet wipes, simply dries up and lies in the open for years, spoiling the view.

Frequently Asked Questions: Connectivity, Overnight Stays, and Risks

This section will help you plan your trip wisely and avoid surprises that the wild steppe might spring on you.
The short answer is no. The Bokty Tract is located in a deep "digital shadow." The mobile signal disappears long before you approach the mountain. You will be left without internet or the ability to make calls. Therefore, you cannot rely on an online navigator. Be sure to download offline maps (Maps.me or Organic Maps) and mark your camp location in advance. It is very easy to lose your bearings in the labyrinth of dirt roads.

See the Symbol of Mangistau With Your Own Eyes

Mount Bokty is proof that nature is the best architect. Witnessing this perfectly symmetrical "ship" sailing across a dried-up sea firsthand is an experience that lasts a lifetime. But Mangistau is harsh on solo travelers. To ensure your adventure is filled with awe rather than a struggle with off-road terrain and route finding, trust the professionals.
The Photosafari Travel team invites you on an expedition to the peninsula's main shrines and wonders. We take care of all the organizational complexities:
  • Comfortable Transfer: Our equipped jeeps easily tackle the steppe kilometers while you enjoy the views in the cool comfort of air conditioning.
  • Well-Planned Timing: We know exactly when the sun perfectly illuminates the layers of Bokty, and we will get you there precisely for the "golden hour."
  • Safety: Our guides know every turn, monitor the weather, and always have a Plan B.
  • Photo Assistance: We will show you the exact spot where the 1,000 tenge note aligns perfectly with the horizon.
Join us to see the real Kazakhstan — wild, vast, and incredibly beautiful.
Mount Bokty Photo Gallery
We have collected shots for you that reveal the multifaceted nature of this natural monument: from the classic profile seen on the banknote to the view of the "floating ship." See how the color palette of the layers changes — from soft chalky tones to rich terracotta — depending on the time of day and the chosen angle.
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